Perfecting pedal technique for  the Centuries

The key to an efficient pedal stroke is minimizing the dead spot at the top and bottom of the pedal stroke. The stroke is best described by using the clock analogy. From 12 o’clock (top of the pedal stroke) to 5 o’clock we incorporate the greatest muscle activity – including quadriceps (knee extension), hamstrings (hip extension), iliotibial band (lateral stabilizer), gracilis (medial stability), gastrocnemius (plantar flex foot). From 5 to 6 o’clock (bottom of the pedal stroke) the same muscles are employed but with less activity. From 6 to 9 o’clock it is primarily the hamstrings and gastrocnemius. And all the usual suspects are present with the exception of the grastrocnemius to complete the pedal circle from 9 to 12 o’clock.

We want to pedal in circles, but what does that mean? We do not apply equal pressure around the entire circle – it is impossible due to the effects of gravity. The goal in pedaling circles is to perform more work consistently throughout the circle, and actively unload on the upstroke. Essentially, increasing power over the top and through the bottom of the stroke ultimately eliminates power loss on the upstroke.

The benefits of smoothly pedaling circles include – the ability to use more muscle mass and increase power; distribution of work around the entire pedal stroke preventing muscle fatigue; and the potential to improve pedal efficiency and sustainable power.

We initiate the push forward, primarily with the quads, at 10 o’clock (by initiating early we effectively apply power over the top of the pedal stroke) to 5 o’clock. Think about driving the knee, from the hips, toward the handle bars, maintaining solid hip, knee, toe alignment. From 5 to 7 o’clock we think scrape back by engaging the glutes and hamstrings – feel as though you are scraping mud off the bottom of your foot. This is a quadrant of the pedal stroke that demands concerted concentration and training, unlike the push forward, this movement is not as natural. From 7 o’clock back to 10 o’clock – it is an active unloading of the pedals – studies have shown it is counter-productive to try to generate power by pulling up – so the goal is to essentially alleviate the recovery leg’s dead weight on the pedal.

We train and enforce pedal technique and efficiency via single leg pedaling drills as well as high cadence and specific strength, low cadence intervals.

Single leg pedaling drills are best, first attempted on a stationary bike trainer. Take one foot out of the pedal and pedal single-legged for 15 seconds, with goal to be smooth over entire pedal stroke, especially at the top and bottom. Start single-leg drills with 6×15 seconds on each leg, and as long as there are no hiccups around the pedal stroke, increase time by 15 seconds every two weeks, up to a minute. These drills provide valuable feedback on where our pedaling strengths and weaknesses reside. We utilize this information during interval sessions to help focus our attention on the specific sections of the pedal stroke where we can make improvements.

High cadence intervals, 90-120 rpm, hone the nervous system and teach the body to intuitively pedal efficiently. High cadence pedaling, in general, is an efficient technique as it lessens the load on muscular forces and transfers it to the cardiovascular system. Start with 6x2min, with equal recovery, and a perceived exertion of 60-70%, the goal is not harder and longer, but again efficiently pedaling smooth circles.

Specific strength intervals known as slow frequency repetitions (sfr) are extremely effective. These are intervals performed on a shallow grade of 4-6%, with low cadence 40-60rpm and high resistance by using big gears. When first attempting – please be mindful of the knees, hips and lower back as the torque is high and best to err towards 60rpm until specific strength is developed.

On your long endurance rides, enjoy the fruits of your specific pedaling workouts – think and feel smooth, round, fluid and relaxed.

See you next time for the final installment on century riding – avoiding back pain on the bike.

– Fall for a Century

Fall is century bike riding season, with numerous organized rides taking place from the coast to the Sierra crest*. Ideal temperatures and gentle fall sunshine enhance the experience. Participating in a century is a motivation to dust off that stored bike and finally act on those fitness intentions. Centuries present opportunities to explore new riding areas and routes and enjoy the camaraderie of new riding partners.

The upcoming series of blogs will focus on the recreational rider’s preparation for a century ride. Topics will include purchasing and fitting the bike, perfecting pedal technique and training tips.

Today we outline factors to consider when purchasing a bike.

Stick with me, as we delve in to somewhat dry, but necessary bike frame 101.

The bike frame is essentially a diamond shape. The dimensions of the main triangle shape, formed by four tubes – the head tube, top tube, down tube and seat tube – is of primary importance when selecting a bike.

The head tube contains the headset, which interfaces with the fork. The top tube connects the head tube to the seat tube at the top. The top tube may be positioned horizontally (parallel to the ground), or it may slope downwards (characterizing  most contemporary frames) towards the seat tube for additional stand-over clearance. The down tube connects the head tube at the bottom bracket.

First and foremost, when purchasing a bike understand that it is not one size fits all. The individual body type dictates the frame selection.  For example, a rider with a long femur and short torso, will require a longer seat tube and shorter top tube. Short femur and long torso – equates to a frame with shorter seat tube and longer top tube.

These frame scenarios are dandy assuming the rider is purchasing a custom made bike. But since frames are built with proportional seat and top tubes, meaning long seat tubes equate to long top tubes. The long femur/short torso and short femur/long torso scenarios are not ideally accommodated by the frames in and of themselves. This is where the art of bike fitting perfects the marriage of bike and ride to maximize the individual’s fit. An effective bike fit considers the individual’s goals and then blends the body with the bike to balance handling and optimum power output with comfort and aerodynamics.

The bike industry has revamped their traditional design, which produced bikes with an average three inch drop differential from the top of the saddle to the handlebars, consequently placing riders in an aggressively aerodynamic position.  Now industry engineers are designing bikes with a longer head tube (connecting the fork to the stem) – affording a higher handlebar position. This innovative design has raised the handlebars nearly even with saddle height and as a result has improved comfort while also increasing power production and maintaining efficient aerodynamics.

While cycling is easy on the body, offering a low-impact alternative activity – an improperly sized framed and fitted bike creates a high probability of poor pedaling mechanics and potential overuse injuries. Invest time to insure the body type fits the frame and the bike fits the body.

Stay tuned – for focus on the importance of an individualized professional bike fit.

*Just do it – centuries abound

http://sacramento.cff.org/cfcycleforlife  10/22/11 – CF Cycle for Life, Newcastle

http://www.fallcentury.org/ – 9/10/11 – High Sierra Fall Century – Mammoth Lakes

http://www.tahoesierracentury.com/ – 9/24/11 – Tahoe Sierra Century – Squaw Valley

http://www.pumpkinpedal.com/ – 10/8/2011 – Plymouth

http://www.chicovelo.org/main/century-series – 10/9/2011 – Chico Fall Flower Century, Chico

http://www.tourderocklin.org/tourderocklin.org/index.html – 10/15/2011 – Tour de Rocklin, Rocklin

http://www.davisbikeclub.org/annual_events/organized_rides/foxys_fall_century/ – 10/15/2011 – Foxy’s Fall Century,  Davis